Gemology Fast Track / Unit 19 of 24 · Man-made & treated · 60 min

Synthetics, simulants and assembled stones

Goal: Know the growth methods and the inclusions each one leaves.

Flame fusion (Verneuil)Powder melted through a flame onto a boule.Curved striae · gas bubbles · Plato linesCorundum, spinel, rutile, strontium titanate
Czochralski (pulling)Crystal pulled from a melt.Curved striae (faint) · bubbles · very cleanAlexandrite, corundum, YAG, GGG, forsterite
Flux growthDissolved in molten flux, crystallises slowly over months.Flux fingerprints/veils · Pt platelets · seedEmerald, ruby, alexandrite, spinel
HydrothermalHot pressurised water in an autoclave, on a seed plate.Chevron growth · nail-head spicules · bread-crumbsQuartz, emerald, ruby
Skull meltingMelt contained by its own cooler crust.Flawless; occasional bubblesCubic zirconia
HPHT / CVDDiamond growth at high pressure or from gas plasma.Metallic flux / layered strainDiamond

Assembled stones: how to catch them

Garnet-topped doublet

Red ring table-down on white paper; lustre change where garnet meets glass; bubbles below.

Opal doublet/triplet

Straight join line on side, flat black back, glassy cap.

Soudé emerald

Colourless top + bottom; green layer at girdle (immersion side view).

Sapphire doublet

Natural sapphire crown + synthetic pavilion; different inclusions top vs bottom, join plane with flattened bubbles.

Immersion trick

Drop the stone in a glass of water (or baby oil, RI ~1.47) over white paper. Side view shows join planes, colour layers, diffusion rims, curved banding far more clearly.

Red flags from sellers

Too clean for the speciesToo vivid / too cheapCalibrated identical parcels of 'natural' Type III gemsRough that looks like broken boule pieces (curved surfaces)Tumbled 'rough' with uniform colour
Practical
Buy one cheap flame-fusion synthetic ruby or sapphire (a few dollars). Examine in brightfield with a white diffuser to find curved striae. This single exercise trains your eye more than any reading.
Unit quiz

0/6 answered

1. Chevron (zig-zag) growth indicates…
2. Platinum platelets come from…
3. A red ring when a 'sapphire' is placed table-down on white paper:
4. Cubic zirconia is grown by…
5. Best quick way to see a join plane:
6. Bread-crumb inclusions along a seed plate:
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